| Valentine’s
Day, February 14, 2008
Marin County, California
This is a story about Southern Cooking...
Again this year, my dear friend and colleague
of twenty-two years, Lynne Hale and I made the
same New Year’s Resolution that we have
been unsuccessful in accomplishing in years past.
We resolved not to burn the midnight oil at work
one night a month and meet at a restaurant to
have a good meal and conversation about life,
love and the pursuit of happiness outside our
respective jobs at Lucasfilm. Lynne was born and
raised in Roanoke, Virginia, and we share the
same affection for Southern cooking.
Much to my delight, the first dinner opportunity
arose when I received an invitation to attend
“A Southern Winter Dinner with Scott Peacock”
at Chez Panisse on a Tuesday evening in early
January. Scott is the Executive Chef at Watershed
Restaurant in Decatur, Georgia. The restaurant
is the collaborative creation of Scott and Indigo
Girls’ Emily Saliers with three woman partners.
It specializes in seasonal Southern cooking.
The moment we arrived at Chez Panisse, we were
greeted by Alice Waters, the founder and co-owner
who is credited with single-handedly creating
a culinary revolution in the United States. I
said, “The reason Lynne and I’ve come
tonight is that I’m writing a new book,
GROWING UP SOUTHERN – Stories from the Attic
of Childhood Memories, and this is a research
project.”
I explained that when my mother died seven years
ago, her recipe box had disappeared, either stolen
or lost at the Senior Citizens’ Home where
she was living at the time. “I want to put
myself back into the culture of the South through
the palette of Southern cooking.” Alice
said, “Come with me to the kitchen; you
have to meet Scott.”
With gracious hospitality, Scott welcomed us,
and I told him why we’d come. “GROWING
UP SOUTHERN is about food, sex, guns and rock-n-roll.”
He replied, “Well, it has to be about sex
if it’s about the South,” and I assured
him that it was.
Scott is the co-author, with Edna Lewis, of The
Gift of Southern Cooking. Together with Miss Lewis,
Scott has helped restore the veritable traditions
of Southern food. That night, he surprised everyone
before the meal by serving warm “boiled
peanuts” which traditionally are sold in
a small brown paper bag at roadside stands throughout
the South. I was in hog heaven.
For dinner, Scott served oyster stew with biscuits
and country ham, a butter lettuce salad and deviled
eggs, pork shoulder braised with port wine, and
Miss Lewis’s greens with hot pepper vinegar,
whipped sweet potatoes and black eyed peas, along
with fried hot water cornbread. The meal was finished
with mandarin and buttermilk sherbets with pomegranate
compote and “Cat’s Tongue” cookies.
It was a three hour culinary delight, and by
the end of the evening, Scott had generously offered
to help me with recipes for GROWING UP SOUTHERN
that would be similar to Mother’s.
In April, my sister, Kitty and I are going back
to North Carolina, Georgia, and Florida to finish
up the research for the book. We’ve revised
the itinerary from Raleigh to Swainsboro to include
a stopover in Atlanta to have a meal with Scott
at Watershed Restaurant in Decatur. We’re
eagerly anticipating eating a little bit of everything
on the menu.
Another New Year’s Resolution that I made
was to complete the manuscript for GROWING UP
SOUTHERN by the end of this year, and I’ve
gotten off to a good start.
Following is the Prologue for your amusement.
Bon Appetit.
GROWING UP SOUTHERN
Stories From the Attic of Childhood
Memories
A Memoir by
JANE BAY
In the South, strangers greet
each other when they pass on the street
the highest compliment one can receive is you
are a good person
funerals are lively
and the tea is sweet
Di moin qui vous laimein,
ma di vous qui vous ye'
The above is an old Creole
proverb meaning
“Tell me whom you love and I’ll tell
you who you are”
Whether to the South born
or to the South drawn
the answer is the same
We are the South
Emily
Procter, Actor
LOVE LETTERS TO THE SOUTH
Messages of Hope, Faith and Healing
to all those affected by Hurricane Katrina
Forget geography. Florida is not the South, but with a Mama from North Carolina
and a Daddy who hailed from Georgia, I grew up
thinking I was a Southern Belle.
Mother’s people were cotton and tobacco
farmers in Benson, near the Bentonville Battleground
where Sherman’s army fought the Confederate
Rebels in one of the bloodiest battles of the
Civil War. She graduated from Benson High School
and went on to Pinewood College in Durham to become
a beautician. Most summers of my childhood were
spent on my great-great-grandfather’s farm
where Mother had been born.
Daddy grew up in the tiny rural community of
Wrightsville, near Swainsboro, that was in the
wake of Sherman’s infamous March to the
Sea. He never graduated from high school, but
took off for Florida, where, at the age of seventeen,
he got a job as a soda jerk at the Rexall drugstore
in Leesberg. By the time he was twenty-seven,
Daddy owned the store and was practicing pharmacology.
Daddy’s
shameless philandering drove Mother to the nut
house, shortly after the birth of my brother,
where she received Electric Shock Therapy during
her six-month stay. I had been born on the eve
of WW II, and was four years old at the time of
Mother’s confinement.
Mother, the epitome of the Tammy Wynette anthem
“Stand By Your Man,” and for richer,
for poorer, through sickness and in health, til
death do us part… ad nauseam, was a true
survivor, and managed to flourish during her nearly
forty years of marriage to my father. Buried deep
in the attic of childhood memories was the fear
that I would one day lose my mind as Mother did.
It would haunt me most of my adult life.
My maternal grandmother died in childbirth when
Mother was only two years old. Her death was a
source of great suffering throughout Mother’s
life, yet she showered us - my brother, sister,
and me - with all the love she had never known
as a child. We were the center of her universe,
her fulfillment as a woman. She was our constant
source of unconditional love. Even though Mother’s
life had been hard, she overcame many obstacles.
The stigma of mental illness, the betrayal of
her husband, the humiliation of his illegitimate
children, among other disgraces, instead of breaking
her, made her strong and resilient. I think her
determination to “be there” for her
own children helped Mother navigate the troubled
waters of her life.
Puberty
came to me at an early age. I hated it. I had
developed breasts - large breasts - by the time
I was in fifth grade, and walked around school
clutching my books to my chest to hide the bullet
shaped bulges under my sweater. I started menstruating
on Father’s Day that summer. Mother called
it “The Curse.” During the sixth grade,
I believed I had actually been cursed by some
unknown Providence earlier that year when I’d
come down with a mild case of polio resulting
in having to wear a God-awful metal brace on my
left leg for more than a year. It seemed like
an eternity. I couldn’t dance, didn’t
have a boyfriend, and felt like an outsider at
school. And, if that wasn’t enough, my favorite
cousin, with whom I was secretly in love, committed
suicide by jumping off the roof of his college
dormitory his first week at Florida State University.
My coming of age had gotten off to a pitiful start.
Yet, despite the calamity of these events, shortly
after my fourteenth birthday, and several years
before his appearance on The Ed Sullivan Show,
I met Elvis Presley who was touring with the Grand
Ole Opry at that time. My life was changed forever.
I got hooked on rock ‘n’ roll, “the
Devil’s music,” as it was called from
many a Christian pulpit.
Music became my salvation, my refuge, the sanctuary
where I would go to calm myself during the turbulence
of teenage life. It was also the year that Rosa
Parks, revered now as “the mother of the
civil rights movement,” refused to give
up her seat to a white passenger on a racially
segregated city bus in Montgomery, Alabama. Those
two events (Elvis and Rosa) would become powerful
influences in shaping my attitude about a woman’s
place, and it wasn’t just “in the
home” as I had been raised to believe.
We moved to Lakeland my freshman year in high
school. I didn’t know a single soul that
first day, but decided, right then and there,
that I wanted to be the most popular girl in school
by the time I graduated. It was easily accomplished
by smiling and making eye contact with every student
who crossed my path while walking through the
halls and corridors, and in the classroom.
I was an editor on the school newspaper, a cheerleader,
president of my high school sorority (service
club), and won almost every popularity contest
my senior year. I was voted the girl most likely
to end up in Hollywood.
The primary reason for going to college was to
get a Mrs. Degree. I had been told that it was
just as easy to fall in love with a rich man as
a poor one. For three summers, to help pay my
way through college, I worked in a Kosher Resort
in the Catskills in upstate New York, similar
to the one portrayed in the film “Dirty
Dancing.” It was owned, however, by a German
couple that I sang with in the Methodist Church
Choir in Lakeland. But I got caught up in the
civil rights movement in the early 60s, dropped
out of college, and moved to New York City.
My first job was as a receptionist in the Station
Relations Department at NBC at 30 Rockefeller
Plaza. Wanting to look just like Audrey Hepburn
in “Breakfast At Tiffany’s,”
I bought a Chanel knock-off suit and purse, and
a pill box hat and faux pearls from Saks Fifth
Avenue, and took a modeling job on the side to
make some extra money.
Being the daughter of a pharmacist, I had easy
access to “speed” which, along with
canned tuna and hard boiled eggs, was a staple
in my daily diet. Daddy called them “pep
pills.” I weighed 103 pounds soaking wet,
and at five-foot five, Mother said, “Honey,
you’re so thin you look like a gutted fish.”
But the mantra I grew up hearing was, “You
can never been too rich or too thin.”
The following year I moved to California where
I immediately joined the ACLU (American Civil
Liberties Union), much to my parents’ chagrin.
I got a job at NBC in Burbank where I was working
the day President Kennedy was assassinated.
The head of the Presidential Campaign unit at
NBC invited me to work as his secretary during
the 1964 election. That was the year Senator Barry
Goldwater from Arizona, in his acceptance speech
at the Republican Convention for his nomination
for President, made the statement that “Extremism
in the defense of liberty is no vice.”
It set the wheels in motion that created a political
context in which the President of the United States
and government officials came to believe they
could operate “above the law.” It
created a ripple effect starting with the Vietnam
War, Watergate, the Iran-Contra scandal, leading
up to the current state of affairs with the war
in Iraq.
My parents were the only Republicans on either
side of the family. In the 1964 Presidential election,
Mother voted for Barry Goldwater because he was
so handsome, and Daddy voted for George Wallace
because Daddy was secretly a racist himself. Everyone
else in our family was a Southern Democrat, the
Hubert Humphrey kind of Democrat - liberals with
a strong social conscience.
When I enrolled at UCLA to take an Art History
course, Daddy referred to it as “The Little
Red School House.” Red as in Communist.
“Better dead than red” was a common
topic of conversation at cocktail parties at the
time.
But the times they were a changin’. I went
to work for the head of Columbia Pictures during
the era of films like “Easy Rider”
and “A Man for All Seasons,” and got
swept up in the wild life of sex, drugs and rock
‘n’ roll in Hollywood. I strongly
identified with the Broadway production of “Hair:
The American Tribal Love-Rock Musical,”
and let my long straight hair grow down to my
waist. I began to see myself as a “hippie
liberal.”
By 1968, I was heavily involved in the anti-war
movement protesting America’s involvement
in Vietnam, when Martin Luther King and Bobby
Kennedy were assassinated. I was utterly devastated.
By the end of the war, the youthful enthusiasm
and idealism that held the belief that “my
generation” could make a difference, and
change the course of history, was beaten down
by a decade of violence against civil rights workers,
peaceful demonstrators, anti-war activists, race
riots and police brutality all around the country.
The riots in Newark and Detroit during the “Summer
of Love,” the arrest and trial of the Chicago
Seven, the Kent State Massacre, and ultimately,
the Watergate scandal and impeachment of Richard
Nixon had suffocated the breath out of the peace
movement, and left many people feeling broken
and alone.
I turned my attention to the burgeoning women’s
movement. I had been inspired by Betty Friedan’s
book “The Feminine Mystique,” which
is commonly thought to have started the “second
wave” of feminism, the first wave being
the Women’s Suffrage Movement. My role models
were Gloria Steinem, Germaine Greer, and especially
Bella Abzug, who had started her career as an
attorney at a time when very few women did so,
and took on civil rights cases in the South long
before being elected to the House of Representatives
in 1970. I organized “consciousness raising
groups” at my house on Wonderland Avenue
in Laurel Canyon high in the Hollywood hills.
A whole new world began to open up.
Subsequent years, however, would reveal the domination
of corporate greed that mandated policies of government
and the suppression of civil liberties. It happened
right under our noses.
The 1976 fictional film “Network,”
written by Paddy Chayefsky and directed by Sidney
Lumet, tells the story of a TV journalist, who,
upon learning that the conglomerate that owns
the network is about to be bought out by an even
larger Saudi Arabian conglomerate, launches into
an on-air diatribe urging the audience to send
a message to the White House saying, “I’m
mad as hell and I’m not going to take this
any more,” in hopes of thwarting the merger.
Later in the film, there is a much more insidious
message promulgated by the Chairman of the network
who delivers a speech, like the wrath of God,
to the journalist in the darkened shadows of a
conference room. With the authority of a Messianic
leader, the Chairman explains the “corporate
cosmology” of the world. He informs the
journalist that there are no governments, there
are no nations, that “…the world is
a college of corporations inexorably determined
by the immutable by-laws of business.” A
quarter century later, the film seems to have
been a prophecy of the shape of things to come.
Up until the time I was about thirty-five years
old, I told people I’d had a Norman Rockwell
childhood. I thought a picture said a thousand
words, and I had a family photo album filled with
pictures that looked like they belonged on the
cover of “The Saturday Evening Post.”
But my childhood had not been a bowl of cherries.
I wanted a Doris Day life. I had a family that
was as dysfunctional as anything in a Tennessee
Williams play.
For many years, I felt a deep-rooted shame about
my upbringing, especially that my ancestors had
owned slaves. I had purposely changed my Southern
accent and flattened my breasts because I’d
heard men say, “The larger a woman’s
breasts, the smaller her IQ.” I wanted more
than anything to be acknowledged for the quality
of my mind and the nature of my character, rather
than as a sex object. But I had thrown the baby
out with the bath water. It was only after years
of critical self-inspection and searching for
a spiritual connection that I came to realize
the essence of my heart and soul had come from
the South.
GROWING UP SOUTHERN – Stories from
the Attic of Childhood Memories is about
how the sensibilities of the South shaped and
informed the person that I would grow up to be.
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